Monday, December 21, 2009

School

Note: so I wrote this a few days ago when I thought I'd have regular internet access. Then, I couldn't connect for five days. Turns out I didn't have credit on the right line and was too stupid to figure that out before wasting a morning on the phone with customer service. So, I'm back. But these thoughts are a few days old.


There are two écoles primaires in my village: a private Catholic school and a public one. The Catholic school is part of a larger compound, with the church, the sisters’ dispensary and the daycare center nearby. It’s new and doesn’t differ much in style from the schools I worked at in France (the exception being that the rooms and windows open to the outside, a characteristic ill-suited for Normandy winters). The Catholic school’s familiar construction makes it obvious that it was built with foreign, donated funds; a sign says as much if you need confirmation.

The public school, well, until a few days ago, I didn’t know what it looked like. Maybe it’s because my host family is Catholic. Or because ML~ is largely Catholic. Maybe it’s because my counterpart, who is Muslim, sends his kids to the Catholic school. Or maybe it’s just because the Catholic school is at the entry to the village, the public school being considerably farther away. For whatever reason, after two months in ML~, I’d never set foot in the public school. At the same time, I walk by the Catholic school almost daily, have attended a meeting or two there – I’ve been introduced to all the teachers.

But my community is not homogenous. This is Senegal, a Muslim country: in villages where they don’t dominate, the Muslims still have a presence. There is a mosque directly on the village square (even if it is a good deal less impressive than the church, funded as it is by generous Catholics once again living outside of Senegal.

And so this week I made “non-Catholic” the theme of my visits in ML~, hopefully distinguishing me from some of the other well-meaning toubabs who come here on vacation. I stopped by the imam (who I had visited) and the public school (which I had not).

The public school is not as impressive as its Catholic counterpart, but mimics the French style all the same in an older, crumblier manner. There are more students and fewer teachers. And I have to walk pretty damn far to get there, greeting what seems like the entire village en route. But, lo and behold, there, hiding under my very nose, I found the potential for my first mini-project. I found something to keep me from dying (read: ETing) of boredom in January, something I’m actually already inherently capable of doing, even before February’s In-Service Training. L’informatique, which we can define here as teaching basic computer skills.

It turns out that once upon a time in the last ten years, someone (the state? renegade Catholics?) donated an old desktop computer to the public school. It sits there in the principal’s office unused, collecting dust because it’s old, because it uses up the solar-charged battery that people would rather use for their cell phones, because the five teachers really don’t know how to use it.

The directeur has got ideas for how they should use it: namely for writing up tests and texts (enter Microsoft WORD stage right) and calculating scores and averages (enter Microsoft EXCEL stage left). Then, once someone (not me) finds the funds to buy an ink cartridge, the star of the show – the printer – can be used to save the teachers the hassle of writing everything by hand. No joke: they write every test, every class roster by hand. Take a minute to get over the brain freeze induced by that notion of inefficiency.

So, there you have it. With any luck, I have something to do at least two days a week starting in January. I just have to
a) find a free non-internet-based typing/general computer learning program in French;
b) overcome the Senegalese habit of being late or absent for any agreed upon, fixed rendez-vous; and
c) overcome my aversion to the creepy directeur, who sees no problem giving entirely unprofessional flattery to someone young enough to be his daughter.

This is my first mini-project, though: conditions, shmonditions.

Wednesday, December 16, 2009

One long cab, bus and pirogue trip later, broken up with waiting for the cab, the bus and the pirogue, and I find myself back in ML~. It's both pleasant and difficult to be back. I'm thrilled to have my own space again, my own bed (even if it is a foam mattress with a me-shaped depression in the center). My lungs are grateful for the car-pollution-free air and my senses are more at ease, less tense. I can sleep well again in the near silence, not jarred awake by Dakar city sounds or people passing through the regional house. And I suppose it's also nice to be back in my community. Even if they don't need me or know quite what to do with a volunteer, they're welcoming (er, tolerant) all the same, and at least some people have seemed genuinely happy to see me back.

I'm not so thrilled to return to the level of inactivity that is becoming a habit. It is not rewarding to consider productive a morning spent walking through ML~, greeting villagers. [It's exhausting for an antisocial crab like me, but hardly productive.] Especially after having talked to other volunteers and heard what they're up to, even with their small projects, it's hard not to feel useless and bored and lazy all over again. And my program director's assurance at Thanksgiving, backed up by a second year volunteer, that my plate might be less than full this first year, well, that's more disconcerting than comforting. I'm still not sure why I should be here being unproductive and idle when I could be unproductive and idle someplace with electricity, warm water, unmelty chocolate, someplace closer to my family. [This is the point where all the counter-arguments to my bitching start flooding my head, so don't worry: I'm not ETing yet.] And, finally, being in Dakar was like being on vacation with friends and eating out and drinking. When I got back last week, in contrast, I spent an entire morning - three hours - doubled over plastic basins, hand-washing two weeks' worth of laundry. I might never say this after PC: the vacation's over; now I just wish there was some work to get back to.

In other news...I've finally set up internet, sort of. I have a battery-powered wireless internet phone line. I have to buy credit to log on. I have to make sure my computer AND the phone are both charged. And I have to make sure that there's enough sun to fill the family's solar charger to charge the laptop and the phone. We'll see how reliable this is...

Please forgive me for throwing punctuation rules out the window this time. :) It's been awhile.

Saturday, December 5, 2009

Dakar & Eco-T conference

Well, while being in Dakar has been lovely (and expensive), the eco-T conference which ended today was a bust. Beyond the introductory speeches on Thursday, none of the trainings/workshops materialized and the traffic through the expo was limited. At any point, there were up to 11 volunteers sitting around the Peace Corps stand with our counterparts looking very bored. There was some good networking, but the lack of organization around the training hardly merited a 3 day conference. Wah-wah-wah.

The "after-hours" part of this trip has been fun, though. Yesterday, after 6 hours at the Hotel de Ville, I took off with PCVs Byron, Cail and Alex on an unofficial walking tour of the city. We started with ice cream and ended with a happy hour many hours later; passed through slums and luxury hotels; saw the President's mansion, the Assemblee Nationale, the Palais de Justice and two of Dakar's islands from afar. Exhausting? Yes. But it was also amazing to get to know the city just a little bit more and move a step away from being terrified of it.

So, now I'll spend another day or two here in Dakar before heading back to my site. Until then I'm going to enjoy this delicious feeling of not really being in the Peace Corps for a few more days...

Wednesday, December 2, 2009

Back in Dakar

I've now been away from site for over a week, keeping quite happily busy. After Tabaski, my friend Alyssa left on a tournee of Senegal. So, off I headed to Pout to visit my friend Jackie. (Take a second to giggle at the silly name. You know you want to.) Pout's on the road to Dakar and is known for its fruit (mango capital of Senegal, specifically). Aside from making fruit smoothies, we didn't really go crazy on the fruit, but we did cook a bit: banana pancakes and makeshift mac-and-cheese. Not at the same time. Delicious.

Now I'm back in Dakar for an eco-tourism conference that Peace Corps is participating in. Today, we sat in on ("crashed") a separate one-day eco-T conference at a very fancy hotel, and we were rewarded with the most amazing buffet lunch ever. We shamelessly charged the food tables for first, second, third servings, beating the actual attendees to the punch. It was a bit embarrassing, but we're hungry PC volunteers, right? Plus, I haven't had real salads (There were beets. BEETS.) or a decent chocolate baked good since I got here. We went to town. And then sneakily rolled our stuffed selves out of there before most people had got to the main course. Conference crashers.

Right now we're back at the PC office doing some last minute prep for the week's conference (which we're actually supposed/allowed to be attending). In a little bit, we'll be heading out to clams and beer (or shellfish and alcohol, more generally) at some shack on the Western most point of the continent. Not a bad way to spend a Wednesday.

Ahti - you won't believe this: we went to Thai last night and I actually ordered a shrimp dish. Shrimp, as in shellfish. I hope you're proud!